If
your push-off ski slides out laterally, is that an equipment issue
or a technique issue - or both?
Skating? All skating pushes are directly to the side, not back. If
the ski is slipping as you push out, it could be technique (trying
cranking your knee in so your ski goes more on edge, or you're pushing
with the ball of your foot (bad) instead of your whole foot) or equipment
(the ski is too soft for the hard conditions.
Classic and not in a track? Are you sure you're balanced over the
ski? If you're weight is actually between your skis, you would tend
to push your ski out laterally as you pushed down. (Mike
Muha)
When one encounters a relatively sharp curve on downhill going at
a good clip, what is the proper technique?
There are two important rules for downhills:
Rule #1: Always keep your hands in front of you - you should ALWAYS
be able to see your hands. The most common reason to fall is when
one hand goes behind you.
Rule #2: Point your hands around the corner. You hands should lead
you into the corner, and point in the direction of the curve.
To answer your specific questions, generally, the outside ski slightly
leads the inside ski. Do you push one ski ahead of the other? Yes,
the outside ski - especially in a track. You can also steer your ski
by pushing against your boot with your forefoot (toward the inside
of the turn and heel (toward the outside of the turn). If you're going
faster than the corner can take, you must skate/step turn to the inside
of the corner. Quickly skate off the outside ski onto the inside ski
to get a more inside line - this could be multiple skate steps and
is a very quick set of motions!
It's critical to be "light on your feet" or have "happy
feet" - that means being able to quickly shift weight from one
foot to the other - necessary to skate/step turn in a corner.
Many people going down a hill have "lead feet" - their weight
is evenly divided between their feet (OK) but they can't shift their
weight to one ski (bad) because they're fearful of falling (self-fulfilling
prophesy).
Here's a couple drills: In shoes: stand in place in an athlete-ready
position. Now quickly step from foot to foot as fast as you can. On
skis: go down an EASY hill and do the same thing. (Mike
Muha)
Look where you want to go and not at what you want to miss. If you
look at the tree you will hit the tree! Keep your hands in front of
you. If something affects your feet, the shoulders will want to rotate
and as soon as the arm goes behind your body - you will fall. Have
happy feet - the lead feet will make you stiff and more likely to
fall. If the weight is between the skis you get stuck and will not
be able to respond to changes in terrain. One common scenario is a
"face plant" due to the inability to keep the skis together.
Try to take the inside of the curve - there is usually more snow and
it is less likely to be scraped away. You might have to start on the
outside and cut to the inside if you are "flying". (Lexanne
Creitz) Always
have one foot in front of the other. This is basically taking the
Telemark position down to a very small distance - from several inches
to one foot between forward foot and trailing foot. Ideally the
forward leg has the leg from ankle to knee in a vertical position
and the knee slightly bent--depending on how far back the trailing
ski is placed. This "offset" position versus both feet
together allows adjustment for any bumps or snow undulations.
(RK) |
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Safety:
Equipment:
Waxing:
Waxing for warm (close to freezing and warmer) temperatures:
(L Creitz, C Hohnke, M Muha, M Oliver, E Steinman,
E Trzcinski, AVollmer, M Gaerttner)
- Waxless skis are a good choice.
- If using waxable skis start with hard kickwax, then add klister
if needed. Silver klister is a good choice in warm weather. Keep klister
where it can stay warm if possible because some klister can't be easily squeezed
out of a tube below 40F. Aquick non-messy way to apply it is to put the
outh of the tube against the ski base, squeeze the tube and move the tube
down the ski base drawing a thin film of klister. Repat 3 or 4 times to
cover the width of the kick area. No paddle needed.
- Use a low temperature klister binder (eg. green, applied warm
with a hair dryer), followed by the klister suitable
for the higher air temperatures. If starting early in the morning with
cold temperatures, add the appropriate hard kick wax over the
klister. The hard kick wax should be applied over COLD klister.
(This advanced method lets the skier have it both ways: good kick
for cold temperatures, yet good performance for warm temperatures after
the hard wax wears off.
- Toko's Waxing
Cross Country Skis for Beginners
- REI
on Grip Waxing
Etiquette:
General:
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